In more than a year of fighting, there have been so many conflicting things written about the Free Syrian Army (FSA). What started as a peaceful protest has become an armed struggle against the military might of the Bashar al-Assad regime.
The aim of our trip was to see FSA up close, and work out exactly who they are and what they want.
I can't reveal how we got into Syria. We agreed not to divulge any details. Routes into the country are not
only used by journalists, they are a humanitarian lifeline. But I can tell you it was difficult, and very dangerous process, involving considerable risk.
We had arranged to travel to Al Qusayr, an important strategic town, close to Lebanon.
It is less than 30km from Homs, and many of its fighters were involved in the battles when the forces of regime launched their major offensive in the province three months ago.
Entering Al Qusayr, we found a town completely divided. I have never been to any like it before. It is a small place - which now is a patchwork of multiple frontlines. About half of the territory of town, which before the start of the uprising had a population of 40,000, is in the hands of the opposition.
The government forces hold the other half - including the municipal headquarters and the town's main hospital. Both have been turned into military bases.
Local people can sometimes cross the frontlines, and the shaky ceasefire has made life just a little easier for people that have been suffering during the fourteen months of violence and turmoil.
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